This is the story of how the Syrian war reached out 5,000 miles across the
globe and destroyed at least 29 Lebanese lives in the Indian Ocean. It is a
story of tragic irony; the destitute Lebanese families who wanted to live in
Australia and left their arid villages in the hills of the northern Akkar
plateau had been warned by their relatives not to leave their homes, and they
died just off the coast of Indonesia. And it is a story of a country whose
authorities take no responsibility for the deaths of their own people.
The sinking of the overcrowded
refugee boat that set off from the Java district of Cianjur 10 days ago cannot
match the hundreds of fatalities of the north African boat that sank off the
Italian island of Lampedusa last
week, where up to 350 people are thought to have died and divers were still
recovering bodies from the Mediterranean yesterday. These disasters do not
match in terms of scale of loss, but some features are the same: the
desperation of the passengers to find a new life, the involvement of ruthless
people-smugglers, the wooden hulks in which they sought illusory safety. What
is different is the nationality of the refugees. For Lebanon – of all Middle
East countries – is a place of comparative security and wealth, despite the
Syrian conflict and the violence it has brought to Beirut and Tripoli.
In some south-west Asian countries, television advertisements
warn would-be asylum seekers of the fate that awaits them. Scarcely an hour
passes on an Afghan TV channel without an ominous man’s voice – against a black
screen – telling viewers in Dari (Farsi) and Pushtu: “Australia is not a
country to reach by boat. If you attempt to go by boat, you will not be allowed
onto Australian territory. You will be sent to the island of Papua New Guinea
and will never be allowed to live in Australia…” No such warning has ever been
broadcast on Lebanese television. There seemed to be no need.
Unlike the anonymous victims off Lampedusa, where there were too
few coffins for the dead, the Lebanese who lost their lives and drifted ashore
from the Indian Ocean have known identities. Careful investigations by the
local Lebanese press have discovered their Sunni Muslim home villages: Qabaait,
Khreibet and Nabaa Fnaydaq, close to the Syrian border, and the Tripoli suburb
of Bab el-Tabbaneh, whose militias have been at war with pro-Syrian Alawite
gunmen east of the city for two years.
The remote hamlets astride the Bared river – which dribbles into
the Mediterranean from the Palestinian refugee camp of the same name – have
been neglected for years by the Beirut government, no more so than now, when
the political feuds between pro- and anti-Syrian Lebanese parties means that no
new Lebanese cabinet can be created.
There are no schools in much of the Akkar countryside, few
hospitals, almost no jobs. The young men have no money to get married. Many of
them are forced to join the Lebanese army in order to survive. The “outgoing”
Lebanese government – elected in a poll now hopelessly out of date – didn’t
care. Almost an entire family were lost from Qabaait. The Khodr family’s only
survivor was the father, Hussain, whose wife and nine children all perished.
The remains of his wife and one daughter were brought ashore. In Tripoli, the
Gamrawy and Hraz families lost their loved ones, while Talal Rai died with his
three children and his sister, Ahmed Abdo, the father of Mustafa who was 24 –
who is still missing – borrowed $10,000 from his friends to pay for the journey
to Australia; the total cost for each family was $60,000 to be paid to an Iraqi
smuggler known as “Abu Saleh”.
Many relatives had begged the
families not to leave. Abdo told one local paper that “my son is one of the
good young boys who sought to live in peace. The economic and security problems
we have suffered through forced him to emigrate and look for peace of
mind”. To the Lebanese
government, Abdo declared: “You should look after your people, and
your country, and enough of your disputes.”
A photograph survives of the passengers aboard their boat,
sitting on rough, wooden benches in the choppy seas off Java. The picture is
spotted with raindrops, but you can clearly see the doomed Lebanese aboard. One
smiles broadly, another waves at the camera, most stare at the camera. Behind
them is a bleak, grey sky and a sinister, frothing sea. They are only minutes
from death. We know that in the last moments, one Lebanese used his mobile
phone to call a relative in Melbourne to seek help. The relative called the
Australian naval authorities, who later launched helicopters and jets in a
hopeless search for a boat that had already sunk.
But when the scale of the Lebanese
losses reached Beirut – only 18 Lebanese survived – their
pseudo-government sprang into action. It promised that survivors would be
brought home, and that all those whose bodies were found would be brought back
to be buried in the barren soil of their own land. In fact, they spent more
time making pledges about the dead than they did about the living. And what
does that tell you about Lebanon?
Ruthless dictator? Not at all, says Nasser’s
wife
Tahia Nasser appears to have been a typical Egyptian housewife.
She worried about her kids’ health, thought her husband worked far too hard,
delighted in her daughters’ marriages. Her dictator husband, Gamal Abdel
Nasser, appears in her memoirs (now published for the first time in English) as
a loving, faithful, reliable, doting spouse and father.
Not a hint that he hanged his enemies when they tried to kill
him – no Muslim Brother would forget that – and the word “torture” does not
appear on these pages.
Reading them, I kept remembering my old Egyptian colleague at
Associated Press, the late Ali Mahmoud, who was hung upside down by Nasser’s
goons and dipped head-first into a vat of warm faeces to make him talk. And I
asked the usual question: could this be the same Nasser?
Tahia’s book – she died in 1992 after both Sadat and Mubarak had
prevented its publication – is not exactly a rip-roaring read. But there are a
few moments that bring you up short. Returning home on leave from the 1948
Arab-Israel war after sending his wife a series of letters assuring her of his
good health, Nasser revealed that he had been wounded.
“I saw a fresh wound and stitching on the left side of his chest
and asked him about it,” Tahia wrote. “He told me it was nothing, just a small
wound. When I was unpacking his bag, I found a handkerchief, vest and shirt
heavily soiled with blood.” Nasser had been hit by an Israeli bullet which
ricocheted off his vehicle’s windscreen. Before the 1952 revolution which
overthrew King Farouk, Tahia found herself hiding rifles and ammunition in the
family home – and for many weeks, it seems, thought nothing was amiss. Only
when she was congratulated on her husband’s successful coup did she understand
his role in history.
She blithely accepts the line that General Mohamed Neguib – a
friend of Nasser and the first post-revolutionary president of Egypt – tried to
stage his own coup against her husband. But Neguib’s own memoirs and subsequent
research suggests that Colonel Nasser falsely accused his former senior officer
in order to get rid of a rival.
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