Syrian couture designer Rami Al Ali has created his new SS21 couture collection and it’s all about the Levantine nation that borders the Mediterranean Sea. It’s a collection of nostalgia to his native heritage, reflecting on the magical allure of a night out in the ancient city of Damascus. “There is intimacy, a sense of familiarity and warmth. A Damascene evening, to me, consists of a cool breeze wafting with a sweet Jasmine aroma. Calming whispers behind the rosewood mashrabias, muddled with the gurgle of the courtyard fountain and the shadows created by the full moon, like a serene sanctuary – so soulful and peaceful,” muses Al Ali.
Born in Deir ez-Zor, a city in Eastern Syria, young Al Ali was exposed to the rich culture of the nation, along with having an architect father and a Middle Eastern historian mother. “It is grounding having such deep roots that create a strong foundation, connecting east and west,” notes Al Ali. “As Syrians, we have an intricate social structure, which is very personal and warm, like its craftsmanship and artisans. Culture and sophistication are intellectuality inherited through hundreds or years of prosperous history. We are generous and hospitable by nature, noble and modest.”
Always fascinated with fashion, the designer was taken by the power of fashion. Studying in the Syrian capital, he became specialized in interior and graphic design. In 2000, he moved to the United Arab Emirates to launch his eponymous brand, unveiling his inaugural collection in 2012.
Syria has been going through its ongoing civil war for the past ten years but despite all the challenges in the country, Al Ali continues to stay in love with it. “Now, more than ever I need to connect to my roots and preserve my identity - to tell the story with a sense of hope and love. Syria has been and will always be part of my creative persona, my real voice, what grounds me and gives stability. It is always a source of inspiration – the architecture, the nature, the craftsmanship, the people – it has appeared in several collections through the history of the House. My eternal muse.”
If you’ve ever been to a Rami Al Ali pret-a-porter or printemps presentation in Paris, then you know he chooses the most upscale hotel locations. Back arched, his head held high, he carries himself with confidence and regality, taking pride in his collections as he checks every detail of his designs. Al Ali is always present in the room as models showcase his intricate creations. His collections exude feminine strength for the women that wear his designs.
“There are certain characteristics of a woman that have long inspired the brand and have influenced my collections season to season.” The Rami Al Ali woman according to Al Ali. “is confident and elegant with an unapologetic air of glamour about her - she is both modern and timeless. Her confidence and strength are mirrored through strong architectural silhouettes that are interspersed throughout my collection, and elements such as intricate handwork speak to her softer femininity.”
“Every designer is a movie director. Every time we start a collection, we have a script, set design and lighting – when combined create the universe of that theme.” His SS21 collection is quintessentially Rami Al Ali where he has manipulated silhouettes, by “skillfully casting shadows against the body through strong opaque fabrics,” notes his House. Bringing his graphic design talent into play, Al Ali’s designs cut to enhance architectural lines. The collection is filled with warm beiges, champagne colors and blush tones, along with the moody shades of black. As his House has not presented in Paris since January 2020 and digital has become a medium he has embraced. “The new virtual shows have brought this talent to the surface and made it more in practice. It was definitely a new experience and offered a unique element that had not been explored by the brand before. It expanded our reach and allowed for more people to experience the exclusive realm of couture. In saying that, I don’t believe it will replace physical shows. Couture specifically, is about craftsmanship that needs to be felt, touched and seen in person. It’s not just drama and creativity that can be shown digitally – this is just one element.”
Playing with shapes of voluminous ball gowns and floor-gazing dresses, we see how Al Ali has taken pride in every detail. Incorporating various textiles, satin and silk are a part of the collection. Big bows, ruffles and hoods add character and design. Of course, the ongoing pandemic has put a halt to his luxurious shows but that hasn’t stopped Al Ali and his team from producing the SS21 collection. “This pandemic has caused us all to slow down and allowed the fashion industry to reevaluate what we are producing. It opened our eyes to understand the real demand in order to cater to it in the best way possible. For now, we are producing less while also diversifying our offering.”
In the midst of the pandemic Al Ali and his team are creating forward. “This year forced us to tweak our previous plans and expedite some. We launched our E-Commerce site, which is an amazing direct connection to our clients. We also launched WHITE, our demi couture line that caters to unique and special occasions. We are currently preparing to launch our new pret-a-porter collection along with our annual couture bridal collection later in the year and have many other exiting projects in the pipeline so watch this space!”
By Allyson Portee
Forbes
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